Why You Need To Do A Halong Bay Cruise

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Taking a Halong Bay cruise has been a bucket list item of mine for a while. So when I finally made it to Vietnam I knew if I did nothing else in the country, it would be this. Everyone’s pictures always look so amazing that I just had to see it for myself. But since I knew very little about Vietnam, you can bet I knew zero about Halong Bay cruises.

Where to start? There’s always a part of you that really doesn’t know what you’re booking online. You worry it won’t meet up to your expectations, or that your cruise ship is going to be a rusted contraption you’ll need to help bail out at regular intervals. The truth is the only way you can know is to go by reviews, so I’m here to tell you a bit about my experience and help with some of your decision making.

Click here to book this Bhaya Cruises Halong Bay tour through Viator

Where is Halong Bay?

I had no idea before I started researching this trip. I knew it was a popular destination in Vietnam so it couldn’t be that remote. But my Vietnamese geography was not too good. In Vietnam there are the three major places people might visit: Hanoi, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). These are, respectively, in the North, central area and South of the country. Halong Bay is also in the North. So if you want to visit it and do a cruise yourself, you’ll likely end up spending some time in Hanoi, the most accessible place to begin your trip.

Halong Bay is about 170km (105 miles) from Hanoi heading East. To get there we were picked up in a mini bus from our hotel, the Sunline Paon Hotel, at around 9am and drove about 2.5 hours including a stop on the way.

Which company to go with

I did a bit of research looking for a company that had good reviews, enough photos and generally gave me a sense that I would want to give them my hard earned money. For even though Vietnam is a cheap country, a Halong Bay cruise is not the cheapest item, likely due to its popularity. After some looking we settled on Bhaya Cruises.

Their boats looked nice, they got good reviews and it sounded like a good itinerary. We had the option to make our own way to the cruise starting point, or to book the transfer with them. Again after looking at various options, it seemed a safer bet to just book the transfer with them. For one, if they were running a bit late at least the boat wouldn’t leave without us. We hoped! Return trip transfers from Hanoi to Halong Bay for 2 people ended up $80 USD.

How much is the Halong Bay cruise?

First of all, there were different options for length of cruise. You could sail for 2 days-1 night or 3 days-2 nights. Given our rather limited time in Vietnam we opted for the 2 days-1 night cruise, and thought that would be enough for us to get a taste of the area.

The public tours on Bhaya Cruises have two service levels, each one on a separate boat. They are Bhaya Classic and Bhaya Premium. Here are some of the main differences:

As expected the Bhaya Classic is the cheaper option, so we went with that one. It still seemed like a great product, and was just what we were looking for. The cost of our 2 day-1 night cruise on Bhaya Classic in the Deluxe cabin was $290 USD for the two of us. Like I said, not really the cheapest thing for a country where most other things are cheap. But it depends if this is an important activity for you. For us it was. That price includes accommodation, all food, welcome drink and the activities you do (including a cave tour and kayaking in the bay).

Another great thing I discovered when booking Bhaya is that they are very conscious of environmental impact, focus heavily on recycling and sustainable choices. Read this related post Ethical Tourism in Halong Bay by fellow blogger Paula Pins the Planet.

Getting to Halong Bay from Hanoi

The craziness of Hanoi was soon left behind as we traveled East on the highway towards Halong Bay. The hordes of motorbikes and bicycles were replaced by average cars. If it weren’t for the street signs, you could quite easily forget you weren’t at home. The cars were a little less dented than their inner city counterparts where bumping into others was the norm not the anomaly.

We passed yellow and green fields with the odd cow or worker tending the crops. Small villages with brightly colored houses contrasting the grayed out city buildings in Hanoi covered in years of exhaust smoke and urban grime. Even the cables along the highway looked more organized than the haphazardly tied together ones in Hanoi where safety didn’t seem like a concern to most people.

The minibus was comfortable and air-conditioned, and there were only 7 of there. There was wifi, electrical outlets and complimentary water. There was at least once on the journey I nodded off when I woke up at the rest stop. It looked like this was the rest stop for the area. We had about 20 minutes there. Enough time to grab a drink at the cafe and peruse the glass cabinets at the pearl shop. Yes, this place, like many other stops tourists are taken to in Vietnam, was a pearl farm. After that it was only about 20-30 minutes to where we would pick up the boat.

The check in process for our Halong Bay cruise

We arrived at the town where the cruises depart at around 11:30am. After signing in and paying for our transfer we were offered a welcome drink. We waited inside the building until boarding. The building was air conditioned with drinks available for purchase and access to washrooms. It started to get really busy the closer we got to departure time, and I honestly have no idea how you begin to organize that many people. And buses. So many buses in the town. It’s like all people are there for is the cruise. That makes sense, but it was rather hectic.

We started boarding at around 12:15pm and got in a small bus outside to take us closer to the dock. It was a very short ride but one that gave us enough time to play a new game I like to call “sink or float” whereby we’d guess which of the boats were seaworthy or not. Luckily ours looked very night and I was pleased with the choice we made.

We met some of the people we would be cruising with, and boarded the boat with our luggage. Fortunately we packed really light since we would be returning to Hanoi, and left most of our luggage there. We were assigned our cabins and given a key to our rooms. When we got on the boat we were given time to go to our room and drop off our things. Then we were to return to the main deck level for lunch and our safety briefing/welcome address.

Our cabin on our Halong Bay cruise

The cabin on our cruise had two twin beds, separate toilet and shower stalls with a sink area in between the two stalls. We had a balcony with table and two chairs, and the room had an air conditioner. I will say that our air conditioner was leaking halfway through the night which was a bit annoying but the staff were very helpful and even gave us both a small gift as an apology the next day.

The look of the room was very nice. Polished wood, solid wood furniture, nice furnishings and decorations. There was enough space for our backpacks, but it might be a little tight if you have a lot of luggage. I would consider leaving some at your hotel in Hanoi if, like us, you are there before and after the cruise. Despite being on a boat, a smaller boat at that, I had a surprisingly restful sleep (not counting the AC incident). The boat anchors down at night in the bay so there’s not much movement.

Welcome to Bhaya Cruises

When we boarded the boat we read our itinerary and although there were a few activities and it seemed pretty regimented at first, it was actually relaxing. And a whole lot of fun. To start off we dropped our bags off in our cabin, freshened up, then headed to the dining room. We were greeted by our onboard manager for the cruise, Mr. Thomas. He introduced us to all the staff who would be taking care of us for the next 24 hours. The staff to guest ratio was rather high as there were at 25 staff members there and only 33 guests on the cruise.

The lunch buffet was served and was promptly attached like none of us had eaten in a month. But seriously, there was a good selection of food, hot and cold. Soups, salads, bread, fish and meat dishes. Now I mentioned in advance I was vegetarian so at the start of lunch I was told that they would bring me food. I got a plate of three different salads (banana blossom, green papaya and potato) and veggie spring rolls.

All were delicious, but I was a bit sad that all they though vegetarians ate was salad. I diligently ate the plateful of food though thinking that would be my lunch. Turns out that was the first course. Oh no! Already pretty full, I then got served tomato tofu, then stir fried veggies and rice. Then dessert. Hopefully the boat was buoyant enough because I would sink after all of that. Well played Bhaya, well played.

Afternoon of adventure

After lunch we had plenty of free time to relax on the top deck or on our balcony (or in the room if it’s too hot for you). Leaving the harbor behind and distancing ourselves from all the other vessels, it was time to finally start appreciating the views. And they were pretty spectacular. The islands jutting up all around us created an otherworldly feeling as we meandered through them. For the first time since I landed in Vietnam there was silence. No cars (and the boats weren’t that loud), no throngs of people chattering and trying to sell you things at every turn. Relaxing on the balcony watching the world go by was so peaceful.

Kayaking in Halong Bay

At around 3pm we had our first big adventure. Kayaking. Now if you’re not into that you can stay on the boat and relax or sunbath, or even go for a swim. We decided to kayak because when else are you going to be able to say you kayaked in Halong Bay? Honestly I’m not sure we can still say that as it turns out our kayaking skills are poor at best. We tried to keep close to the coastline for a circular path but instead ended up going too far one way, then over-correcting the other. And we spent most of the hour yelling warnings to people we were getting too close to. We only crashed once and it was into the dock at the end because who knew kayaks didn’t have brakes?! Still, we had fun.

Swimming in Halong Bay

After our kayak adventure we were taken to a nearby cave to find a secret beach. While not a complete secret, it is a private beach that only Bhaya Cruises can use so it wasn’t overrun. We wandered through the cave (watch out for bats flying around) and reached a lovely sandy beach area where I claimed a not too sunny spot to sit down. If you’ve seen me, then you’ll understand why. I’m English, pale and freckly so me and the sun are not the best of friends. The beach had access to the bay in a netted off area where we could swim without worrying about going too far out. Perfect for someone like me who isn’t a good swimmer.

But I did go in the water. Eventually. After much persuading from my friend who kept throwing the “this might be your only chance to say you’ve swum in Halong Bay” at me. It worked. There were some sharp shells and rocks on the way into the water so if you do this tour just be careful when going in the water. The water was lovely and relaxing though, and nice to cool down on a hot day. We then begrudgingly left our paradise island to get back to the boat. But on the plus side it was nearly time to eat again.

Click here to book this Bhaya Cruises Halong Bay tour through Viator

Evening in Halong Bay

After returning to the boat we showered the salt water off and got ready for a nice evening on the boat. We made it to the bar ready for Happy Hour (buy one get one free drinks). There was also entertainment on the boat if you wanted to take part. On the top deck they had a cooking demonstration of making spring rolls which was a lot of fun. If you want to know more about Vietnamese food, read about the cooking class we took in Hanoi.

There was also a Vietnamese coconut rice wine tasting. I’m not a fan of rice wine, but I was intrigued by the coconut part of it. We were told that what they do is make a hole in the coconut and pour in the rice wine, mixing it with a bit of the coconut water and they seal it up. This is then left for a while (weeks or months) and essentially the rice wine takes on the flavor of the coconut. It was actually really delicious. I had a couple of them, and was able to just sip it which I never do with spirits.

What drinks are included on Bhaya Cruises?

Well this is where the pricing differs from the rest of our experiences in Vietnam. The drinks were much more expensive on the cruise. We got a welcome juice drink when we arrived but other than that all drinks were to pay for. In most restaurants and places in Vietnam you will get a beer for about 25,000-45,000 VND (about $1-$2 USD). There are some that are cheaper, some that are more expensive but this was the norm for us. That said, on Bhaya Cruises the beer was 65,000-70,000 VND (closer to $3 USD). That might not seem a lot but when you’re budgeting it can add up.

A can of soda cost 55,000 VND, whereas usually you would be paying around half the price or less for that. Cocktails were obviously much more. Still all cheap since we’re in Vietnam but worth budgeting more for the cruise drinks than you usually would pay in Vietnam restaurants. Needless to say we took full advantage of happy hour. Buy 1 get 1 free drinks. That means we were essentially paying the more regular price for beer. We stocked up during the hour and didn’t buy any more after that. Nothing like double-fisting beer on a classy cruise! You can take the girls out of Canada…

Dinner on our Halong Bay cruise

I already told you about lunch, but you may be wondering about the rest of the food too. Lunch was a buffet with a lot of great options as I mentioned about. The vegetarians are well catered for too. And it seems like they take other dietary preferences and requirements seriously and will accommodate the best they can. I was really impressed with the quality of the food and the service.

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For our dinner we were given a set menu (see photos above) which was laid out on our table when we arrived. I got my own vegetarian set menu. It was 6 courses. I felt like they were going to have to roll me off this boat when we got back to shore.

Hands down my favorite Asian flavor is taro. I love taro, you know the purple yam that’s a little bit sweet? Looks weird but tastes delicious. So I was over the moon when my third course ended up including taro dumplings. They were like little pieces of heaven on a plate. My friend was making fun of me as I was making yummy noises with each bite.

I started wavering by course number 4 but I made it through as much food as I could. Dessert was spectacular but I think the most over the top course was on the regular menu. My friend got the steamed prawns and they were served in the most outrageously flamboyant way.

After dinner we went to the top deck of the boat and watched the relaxed a bit more, enjoying the peace and quiet of Halong Bay. Then we went to bed since we were told that if you get up around 5am you can see the sunrise. Sounded like a plan.

Sunrise over Halong Bay

Getting up for sunrise sounds like a great idea until the alarm goes off. “We’re only here once, we should do this”. Yeah, night-before-and-three-beers-in Emma has some genius ideas. Unfortunately I-hate-mornings Emma wasn’t buying it. Still, we dragged ourselves out of bed safe in the knowledge that Tai-Chi started at 6am anyway. So even if we stayed in bed we wouldn’t get that much more sleep once Tai-Chi started.

We went to the top deck of the boat, expecting not to see many people there. Turns out pretty much everyone was there and all waiting patiently for the sunrise. It was already quite warm out. We watched the sun come up and it was nice, but since it was a little cloudy out it probably wasn’t as beautiful as it could have been. Still, it was pretty and it was a great way to start the day.

First time visiting Vietnam? Here are 7 helpful tips to get you started

Breakfast on our Halong Bay Cruise

Breakfast was in two parts. After sunrise and Tai-Chi there was a light breakfast buffet with fresh pastries and fruit, juices and coffee. But then we had an activity planned (more on that below). So when we returned from our activity that’s when the main breakfast happened. Again, it was a large buffet with a lot of hot and cold food options. Both Western foods and Asian food.

There were some odd choices for breakfast in my opinion (spaghetti bolognese anyone?!) but the food was good. Like the other buffet meal I was brought my own vegetarian version of the food separately. Stir fried rice with vegetables, breakfast potatoes and spaghetti with a tomato sauce. The carbs on carbs on carbs set me up for the day.

Morning activity on our Halong Bay cruise

In between our two breakfasts we had another excursion off the boat. This time we were headed to Sung Sot Cave, a popular place for many Halong Bay cruise companies. This was a giant cave, the biggest in Halong Bay, with three chambers each larger than the last. We took a smaller boat to get there and although it was only 7:15am it was still unbelievably hot and humid already. I instantly regretted bringing the light jacket I had with me. There were some steeps steps to enter the cave. Not too many but if you aren’t good with steps then this probably isn’t a good activity for you.

Remember to take a reusable water bottle with you on your travels, like this one from FastTech

It was a very touristy cave, and by that I mean there was an illuminated walk way, lots of signs and it had lots of colorful lights lighting up the rocks. Still, we learned about the cave as we went along on our guided tour, passing the numerous other groups of people. It was quite busy, but at least it was lovely and cool in the cave.

The coolest thing though was when we got out of the cave and started our descent back to the boat. There was an amazing view of Halong Bay, so green and with bright blue water. Just phenomenal. Of course the descent down the steps in the heat was not fun. We had to wait to be taken back to the boat and as soon as I got back I needed yet another shower to cool off. It was at this time only 8:30am.

Leaving our Halong Bay cruise

Upon returning to the boat we packed our bags, had our breakfast and settled our bills from the bar. The boat docked at 10:30am and we walked in the light rain to the bus for our return to Hanoi. We were lucky that it didn’t start to rain until we were almost done with our cruise. We ended up with some brilliant views and had the best weather we could hope for after spending $200+ on the short tour.

The journey back to Hanoi was the same small bus with a brief stop, and we were at our hotel by about 2pm. I am really glad we did the cruise, it was definitely a highlight of the trip for me. Even if it is a little more expensive than most activities in Vietnam we were catered to very well and it was worth it. The accommodation, boat, food, service and staff were all incredible.

The cruise length was good, we got plenty of time to do what we wanted. Perhaps if you wanted a bit more relaxation time the two night trip would be better for you. But who knows if that would just include more activities, as it seemed like the company were concerned with making sure people got their money’s worth. I didn’t feel rushed at any point though. I would recommend Bhaya Cruises to anyone else looking for a solid option for your Halong Bay Cruise. There are a lot of options out there so I can’t talk to them, but I would go with Bhaya again.

Click here to book this Bhaya Cruises Halong Bay tour through Viator

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