Taking a Morocco Desert Tour through the Sahara

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Morocco desert tour: Guest post by Valerie Titford

Instead of spending a Christmas at home in Canada, this year we decided to travel. My mom has been travelling Europe for several months and we thought it would be a great idea to go visit her, maybe even escape the winter in Vancouver. So we booked return flights to Spain with a side trip to Morocco, a country I’ve always wanted to visit. And the big part of this trip would be our fabulous Morocco desert tour.

Organized Morocco desert tour versus self-drive

Normally I am not one for arranged tours. Just the thought of the tour guide clap! You know the one, the guide claps and cheerily says “Okay! It’s time to go!” and you’re thinking about the fact you’ve just arrived. Back to the cramped overly air-conditioned bus and on to the next pre-arranged over-hyped tourist destination. I was traveling with my husband and Mom for a short time, so I knew our time in Morocco had to be well spent. We would start our trip in Marrakech and end seven days later in Fes.

We considered renting a car and driving through to Fes. But after reading about other people’s experiences renting and driving in Morocco, I leaned away from that option. Looking back, this was a wise decision. Driving in Marrakech is only for the adventurous and brave. It is filled with one-way alleys packed with motorcycles driving the wrong direction.

Coincidentally, a friend was travelling through Morocco at the same time and suggested, like her, we do a guided Morocco desert tour. We would travel from Marrakech to Fes with otherworldly views, and a camel ride to boot.

Choosing a Morocco desert tour

I narrowed down my search to a few companies, and after emailing back and forth with the organizers, I settled on Morocco Active Adventures. They have been around for over a decade and there were great reviews. With a variety of tours to choose from we opted for the Marrakech to Fes desert tour, a 3-day tour.

The tour goes through the Atlas Mountains and into the Merzouga Desert, part of the Sahara, for an overnight stay under the stars. We would then end in Fes in time for our flight back to Spain.

Meeting our driver with Morocco Active Adventures

Our driver and guide for the Morocco desert tour was Youssef. He met us in a parking lot outside the Medina. The tour organizer said “he will call your names and will inform you that he is from Morocco Active Adventures. If not, please don’t go with anyone since there are many companies who try to go with the wrong clients.” All I could imagine was being taken on the wrong tour, wondering what other exotic adventure we might have.

I thought Youssef was picking us up to bring us to a larger bus outside the city. But no, it turns out that a Land Cruiser 4X4 was secured for the three of us, making it a private tour. Youssef was licensed to carry 6 people in total so all of their excursions are small in size. We did quick introductions and went over our itinerary. Then we were off. Excitement started to kick in.

Day 1 – Marrakech to Dades Valley

Marrakech can be defined by its busy streets, exhaust pollution, loud noises and hustlers trying to get you into their store, so they can “make you a good deal”. We had a great couple of days there, checking out the markets and local sights, but it was time for our next adventure.

The first day was heavy driving. But knowing what adventures were ahead, I found myself content to look out the window at the quickly changing landscape. We listened to Youssef tell us about the cultures and practices of the regions we were in.

Getting out of Marrakech

Leaving Marrakech, the surroundings quickly quieted to small towns, road side markets selling trinkets, and hills lined with lush green pine trees to prevent erosion.

After driving through the Tizin’tichka passage, boasting wonderful views, the landscape became arid. The roads were dusty, there were palm trees everywhere, and the homes we passed were made from adobe, or mud bricks. It was amazing to see the variation just from passing over the mountain side. This was the first moment I felt like we were on our way to the desert.

I think I’ve seen this place before

We drove until we reached Ksar Ait-Ben Haddou, a world heritage site. The ksar was developed in the 17^th century as a fortified village, and families still live there today. It was the site of many popular movies including Sodom and Gomorrah, The Mummy and Gladiator as well as the TV series Game of Thrones. Inside the walls were Kasbah’s and merchant dwellings. While the word “Kasbah” holds different meanings, in Morocco it typically refers to the household or structures behind defensive walls. It was around here that my mom saw her first camel, forcing Youssef to pull over to the side of the road so that I could take photos through the window.

The Roses Valley, Morocco

After leaving Ait-Ben Haddou, we crossed through Ouarzazate (the movie filming capital of Morocco) and visited the Kasbah Amridil in Soura Ahl El Oust. The historic structure is found on the Road of One Thousand Kasbahs and is set between palm groves. This Kasbah is also from the 17^th century, and is open to visitors making it a special place to glimpse the ancient traditions of life behind the fortified walls. Here we saw ancient olive oil presses, grain grinders, ovens and we hiked into the watchtowers to look out over the palms.

Before our first day came to an end, we drove through Kalaat M’Gouna, the Roses Valley. There isn’t much to see in January, but in the spring this area becomes fertile and explodes with rose buds which are hand-picked and distilled into an aromatic Moroccan rose oil or into rosewater. The town holds a multi-day festival each May to celebrate the occasion and I imagine it would smell heavenly.

Our accommodation in Dades Valley

Both accommodation and dinners were arranged as part of the tour. Given that Dades Valley was a small region at the base of the mountains, I had expected to sleep in a local guest house. Instead we pulled up at the 4-star Hotel Xaluca Dades, and were greeted by a man who was offering us mint tea.

I was blown away by the luxury of the hotel. It was far superior to anything I would have booked for us myself. I expected the company to book us two beds in a single room since there were three of us. Instead they spared no expense and we were shown to two separate rooms, both with balconies and sweeping views of the valley. I am not sure what was better, the near-gourmet buffet dinner or getting to have a HOT shower for the first time in days.

Click here for tips on how to avoid getting sick while traveling

Day 2 – Dades Valley – Todgha Gorges – Merzouga Desert

We met Youssef after a quick cup of Moroccan style coffee (aka jet fuel) and breakfast provided by the hotel. After a short drive we arrived at the Todgha Gorges, or as Youssef called it, the “Moroccan version of America’s Grand Canyon.” I can see what he meant. With huge, high red walls, the valley’s floor is a stark comparison and is lined with palm trees and Alfalfa fields. We drove a few kilometers further until we arrived at a river bed. We walked beside the river, watching the local Berber families (Moroccan nomads) get water for washing clothes, and rock climbers scaling the wall face.

Youssef mentioned we were going to visit a Berber family who live in a cave off the river. The family accepts a small number of visitors to learn their culture through translation and share a cup of tea. Out of respect for the family, I did not take photos.

Visiting a nomadic Berber family

After a short hike we arrived at the family’s home, a cave that was maybe 20 feet deep. In the back were linens and clothes, the area where the family slept. Dug into the floor at the front of the cave was a fire ring and pillows where the family did most of their cooking and daytime living. Outside was a bundle of wood for the winter and a pen for where they keep their goat and other livestock.

There was a young boy there, Sayed. He was painfully shy and would only come forward once Youssef presented his cell phone. I couldn’t help but laugh – children are the same everywhere, all interested in technology. Once comfortable, Sayed asked “what is your name?”. Youssef told me he was teaching Sayed a few English sentences and working with the family to find a way to provide education.

Helping the Berber community

If there is something to randomly insert into the middle of sharing my experience, it is that Morocco Active Adventures seem genuinely committed to supporting the community. Youssef is also Berber, and as a young man traveled for his education. He said that providing the young boy with options was the best chance for his success so with the family’s permission, Youssef and others were looking into bringing in an educator for homeschooling. Either that or a family for Sayed to stay with during the school week.

I think Youssef could see much of himself in the young boy and wanted to make sure he would grow up having options for his future. The company also does a charity drive to provide the nomadic families with essential supplies. They collect and deliver clothing, food and medicine.

Traveling onward to the desert

After leaving the family we stopped at the Ihjjamen Mosque, an abandoned mosque. There are very few mosques in Morocco that will allow tourists inside. Here Youssef walked us through the now hollow structure, showing us where to wash our hands, feet, face and ears. We moved to the prayer room and Youssef explained how to determine the direction of Mecca and the proceedings for prayer. We talked about the meaning of the call to prayer that comes five times daily from a speaker high in each mosque’s minaret (it is Salat, the second Pillar of Islam).

Then it was time to outfit us for the desert journey. We stopped at a roadside stand to pick out our headscarves and learned to tie them to protect us from the sun and wind.

While passing through Erfoud, Youssef pulled a hard left and took us up the side of a rocky hill. The area is rich in ammonite, orthoceras and even dinosaur bones. Beside us was a small group of men, chiseling deep into the earth to excavate ammonite and other specimens to sell to local markets. Set into the surface of the rocks were giant ammonites and shells. I am a bit of a rock geek so for me this was an amazing experience.

Getting a good night’s sleep for our desert trip

After all we’d done today, we were exhausted. Youssef took us to our accommodations for the night, the Riad Azawad. We were greeted at a lovely small hotel just at the foot of the desert, again with mint tea. The sinks were made of rock embedded with ammonite specimens and the shower was fitted with pure brass fixtures. After another hot shower (2 days in a row!), I prepared the items that I would need for the desert excursion. The day would be hot (over 20°C) but the night would drop below zero (-4°C).

Day 3 – Merzouga Desert

Youssef greeted us the next morning and asked if we wanted to go for a hike in the desert. We drove deep into the dunes and hiked to the top of a small mountain.

This moment could very well be the highlight of my trip, but definitely of our Morocco desert tour. The stillness of the desert was incredible. We stood at the top of the mountain watching the wind gently stir the sand, creating the iconic tips of the dunes. It was so quiet. We each went off in a different direction to take in the tranquil beauty of our surroundings. After what felt like 10 minutes but was in reality close to an hour, we headed back down the mountain to visit another Berber family.

Experiencing Berber traditions and food

This family lived in a flat part between desert dunes, utilizing thick home-made wool blankets to construct a tent. We shared a cup of tea with a mother and daughter. Shortly after that a man showed up to show us the dinosaur teeth he had unearthed and was going to sell to a local market. It was here that I tried camel milk for the first (and last) time. The family was quiet until my Mom expressed interest in the older woman’s homemade loom. The two of them sat for 10 minutes while Youssef translated how the loom is set up and how the wool is prepared for weaving.

The family invited us to stay for couscous, but we already had other plans. Youssef was taking us to Nora’s for their famous Berber pizza. Berber pizza is what we would consider a calzone. A large veggie pizza, folded in half and cut into strips. It was fantastic, and our bellies were full to get us through the camel ride to our desert camp.

Camel trekking in the Sahara Desert

I had done some reading on camel riding as I wanted to be sure I was choosing an ethical company, a place that took care of the animals. Seeing monkeys chained up in Marrakech, or a desert fox with a broken foot from a trap, made my heart sink. When we arrived though, the camels were wearing goofy smiles and looked well cared for. No Morocco desert tour would be complete without a ride on a camel, right?

Learning to ride a camel

If there’s one piece of advice I will give you, it’s DO NOT LEAN FORWARD when getting onto a camel. That’s a sure way to rocket off. There isn’t much of a chance to get comfortable before they jettison their front legs up hurtling your body forward. They then extend their hind legs, sending you backwards. I try to be selective with photo opportunities but watching my husband and mom get onto their camels was certainly a sight worth capturing.

We were led for approximately 90 minutes through the sand dunes. There is a large group site where everyone meets to watch the sun go down over the Sahara. Some made themselves comfortable on the sand, while others came in dune buggies and sand boarded down the hills. We got back onto our camels and headed to the desert camp where our ‘tents’ awaited us.

Sleeping under the stars in the Sahara Desert

I had expected long joined tents made with rugged canvas and minimal amenities. Instead we were greeted by our host Hussain at the Le Mirage Desert Camp who offered up homemade cookies and mint tea. He showed us to our individual private suites complete with king sized beds, private bathrooms and showers. Although it far surpassed my expectations, I almost felt robbed of an authentic desert camping experience because the ‘tent’ was close to the same size as my apartment in Vancouver.

Between the tents were long red carpets, which made me feel like royalty, leading to the dining room. Inside were gorgeous tapestry rugs, made by Hussain’s mom. Everything in the camp was made fresh, and we joined a family from Ireland to share our meal. Following dinner, a camp fire was lit, while the staff sang local Berber songs under the brightly burning stars. Youssef jumped in with his guitar, as we danced and sang the night away.

Day 4 – Merzouga to Fes

The next morning was COLD. The temperature had dipped to around -4°C that night, well it was January after all. I brought my clothes under the blanket to warm them up before going outside to watch the sunrise. We watched the sky softly illuminate the tops of the dune and then the biggest brightest ball of light came up from behind the camp bringing warmth to the desert.

We ate a fantastic breakfast of eggs, breads, honey, olives and fresh fruit. After feasting, we left our accommodations in the desert. My mom and I opted to ride the camels back to the meeting point while my husband rode in the Land Cruiser with Youssef. He found the experience to be quite uncomfortable the day before. While the saddle was comfortable enough, I could really feel it in my legs and hip joints the next day!

Monkey madness in Morocco

We chose to drive straight to Fes, only stopping for bathroom breaks and to stretch our legs. We drove through the Ziz Valley, with the longest stretch of palm trees in the world. All of a sudden the palm trees end and we were in thick forests. It was here we saw wild monkeys. They were cute little critters.

It’s unfortunate that many tourists lure them with food making them dependent on humans. We watched as carloads of people threw bread and orange to the monkeys. I can almost see why though. It was fascinating watching them use their little hands to deftly peel oranges and eat the juicy insides. We stopped and watched for a few minutes and then carried through to Fes.

Arriving into Fes

Driving into Fes was as much of an adventure as getting out of Marrakech. Motorcycles weaving in and out, small roundabouts turned into a 4-lane game of chicken. Youssef contacted our Airbnb host and arranged a drop off spot for us which was incredibly kind of him. As we neared the city of Fes, we all longed to go back to the desert. To be in the fresh air, barefoot in the sand, drinking mint tea and dancing next to the fire was an experience very different from the bustling cities of Fes and Marrakech.

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Morocco desert tour: a worthwhile way to go

I am very grateful for the experience I had on this tour. It was a blend of the well-known sites and an opportunity to learn about Berber traditions. Sitting on a blanket, watching a woman show my Mom how to work her loom made from branches, and spindling wool to make blankets used for shelter was a humbling experience. Most of the opportunities were granted because I chose an organization that hired local guides who wanted to provide an experience, rather than a series of tacky photo opportunities.

This three night Morocco desert tour was hands down the best part of our Morocco trip, so again I would love to thank Morocco Active Adventures for making this a memorable time for my family. If you have more time in Morocco there is so much more to do in this beautiful country. Check out this One Week in Morocco post by fellow travel blogger Rachel of Earth’s Magical Places for other great ideas and travel tips.

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