Hadrian’s Wall Walk Day 6: Wylam to Wallsend

Disclosure: Advertising and affiliate services, including Amazon Associates, help the cost of running my blog. Clicking ads or making purchases through affiliate links may, at no additional cost to you, earn me a small commission. I appreciate your support.

This is it. The final day. The last section of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk, that will end at the appropriately named town of Wallsend. What a journey it has been. Long days, injuries, detours, and plenty of ups and downs (in both senses). If you’ve been with me throughout this journey, then you’ll have seen a lot has happened since Day 1 between Bowness-on-Solway to Carlisle.

I have many feelings about this whole trip – it has taken a physical and emotional toll. The last day is no different in that sense. But it is very different from the other walking days with regards to the terrain. Almost the whole day is following the River Tyne, skirting around urban settings and housing estates. The walk is pretty, but maybe not conventionally so.

Day 6: Wylam to Wallsend

A night of camping left us a little more tired and less well rested than previous nights. But it was a lovely day – actually going to be a very hot day. As I mentioned on Day 5 we had ended in Wylam instead of Heddon-on-the-Wall. The original plan was to sync up with the actual trail from where we stayed in Wylam. However, there was a niggling feeling we had that we were cheating by not going through Heddon.

We’d covered just as many kilometers off trail to get to Wylam as we would have done getting to Heddon. But still, we wondered if we were missing anything. So we booked a taxi to take us to nearby Heddon-on-the-Wall to pick up the trail at the official starting point for the day. Today’s section of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk will be 15-miles/24km from Heddon to Wallsend.

The day includes lots of riverside walks in more of a built up area. The industrial background around Newcastle-upon-Tyne was fairly evident throughout the day. But the day was not without its pretty views.

There are some good opportunities for food and drink, but be prepared for a very long day. Add walking on a paved trail for the whole day can be extra tiring on the feet.

Accommodation options in Newcastle-upon-Tyne

When it comes to the end of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk, even though you end in Wallsend, I would suggest you head back to Newcastle.

Wallsend is a smaller town, and doesn’t really have any good options. Plus Newcastle is so much bigger, and if you’ve just completed a 134km/84-mile walk, you’ll want to celebrate. Newcastle has so many good restaurants and bars and other things to do.

To get back from Wallsend you can take the train or bus, but if you’re as tired as you will expect to be, I would just catch a taxi or Uber back to Newcastle.

In Newcastle the best and liveliest area is around the Quay or within walking distance from the train station – although it is a very walkable city. Here are a few options for where to stay:

$$$: The Vermont, The County Hotel Newcastle (ideal location across from the station)

$$: Hotel Indigo Newcastle (some really nice balcony rooms for a great city view), Royal Station Hotel

$: easyHotel Newcastle (cheap and cheerful but very central), Albatross Hostel

Rejoining the Hadrian’s Wall Walk trail

In the middle of summer the sun rises super early, and there’s no avoiding the brightness in a tent. We had, however, successfully camped for the night without any rain. That’s a win. Awake, and anxious ahead of the last day, we get ready and start to pack up the tent.

After spending the previous night thinking we were cheating by leaving from Wylam instead of seeing Heddon-on-the-Wall and the official trail, we make an early morning call. A local cab company will pick us up in the town in an hour. It’s the right thing to do, we feel it. Breakfast consists of eating a bunch of snacks to lighten the backpack weight for the day.

I look forward to not having to get up early tomorrow morning. I also look forward to a hot shower at the end of today. This time last week I had been busy getting everything ready ahead of Day 1 of our hike the next day. Now…I don’t know, I’m not as ready to end as I thought I might be.

Packed up, bags de-spidered, and luggage dropped off for Hadrian’s Bags to pick up, we set off towards the pickup spot to meet our taxi. The driver is already there, but he waits a couple minutes while we grab some drinks from the convenience store. And off we go.

Trying to leave Heddon-on-the-Wall

After discussing our journey so far, it’s evident our taxi driver doesn’t really understand the desire to cross-country hike. But he wishes us luck anyway as we get out of the car, finally making it to Heddon-on-the-Wall. We consult the map and stride off in the direction of the trail. We spot a couple of hikers we saw the night before at dinner. All of us start walking towards the Hadrian’s Wall Walk acorn signpost and cheerfully say good morning.

This is it, our last day. Nothing’s going to stop us riding the high of Day 6 of a 6-day hike. Except that we’re going the wrong way. As it turns out, our hiker friends came in from Newcastle the day before and therefore know that this is not the trailhead we need. We’re on the wrong side of Heddon. Not a great start. The map is no help and there’s a lack of acorn signposts. So Google Maps to the rescue and off we go.

We stare down a long winding country road towards the River Tyne. Making sure the little blue Google dot is going the way we want it to, we descend the steep hill. The morning is already hot. To the left, sweeping countryside views; to the right, pretty houses we know we could never afford. We bid goodbye to Heddon and keep walking.

Heddon to Tyne Riverside Country Park

The narrow paved road is busy with a few early morning drivers. Likely heading to work. I’m reminded that it’s not long and I’ll be back at work, instead of walking with no set agenda except to be somewhere by dinner time. Occasionally the road is shaded by tall, leaning trees, creating a sort of canopy over the road as we go further down the hill.

The tree canopy takes a left and so does the trail. The road becomes a forested floor, softer under foot and a much nicer path. Maybe today won’t all be road. A sign tells us we’re entering private property: Close House golf course. But the acorns continue so we follow. Perfectly manicured greenways replace the forest floor. Early morning golfers tee up on the grass while grounds staff make an already perfect looking place even more perfect.

A few minutes later we leave the country club behind and are on the Wylam Waggonway that we’d walked part of in Wylam. We know we’re near the river even if we can’t see it. The bridleway is shaded which is nice after the hot morning sun over the exposed golf course. There are lots of dog-walkers, runners and cyclists all around us. This is already the busiest day for us. I catch the sound of someone mowing grass, and snippets of conversations from locals with nowhere to be. After days in the middle of nowhere it’s kind of overwhelming to the senses.

The trail is long, but the shade helps as it’s getting hotter. We take the odd stop, but know this is a long day, so try to keep pace. Eventually the river comes into view and we walk alongside it for some time. It’s approaching 10:30am and we arrive at our breakfast spot. Hedley’s Riverside Coffee Shop at Tyne Riverside Country Park.

Tyne Riverside to Lemington

Hedley’s has lots of cheap food items – breakfast sandwiches, cakes, hot and cold drinks. We take a seat in the shade and rest, already over 4km into our day. When you think of how far we have to go, that doesn’t seem a lot. I go to apply a generous layer of sunblock and my bottle fizzles to nothing more than air being expelled from the now empty canister. Great timing.

The heat has picked up. Sun blazing in the sky, and no shade at all. Long gone is the safety of our tree canopy on the bridleway. Replaced by a riverside path, long and unforgiving. People happily enjoy the sunny summer day – but they can because they don’t have a huge backpack on and 5 previous days of walking under their belt.

I want to enjoy the day, but it’s a bit too hot and I’m kind of just ready to be done. Maybe if it was more interesting scenery, but urbanization is all around us. I do spot a seal in the river which is a nice distraction. I realize I’m going to need some sunblock soon. We arrive at Lemington and on the map it looks like there’s a pharmacy and a couple of convenience stores just off the Hadrian’s Wall Walk. Leaving Val to relax on a bench, I go in search of sun protection.

Lemington to Elswick

Can you believe that neither a pharmacy nor a convenience store have any sunblock? Slightly disheartened we set off again, and not 30-seconds later spot a supermarket steps away from the trail. Typical. Another quick detour, but SUCCESS – they have sunblock. Coated from head-to-toe we’re on our way, and I’m happier.

The trail is nice and shady at times, but mostly out in the open. The views aren’t too bad, we are next to the river most of the day. The trail crosses over the top of a major highway. We walk past housing estates and local suburban parks. This no longer feels like a countryside trail. I have the feeling that feeling is long gone.

On the map we spotted a restaurant or two where we might be able to grab lunch. At over 12km/7.5-miles into our day it’s about time. Newcastle Deli is a takeout spot with tables outside. Sandwiches, salads, and some hot food items as well as other snacks are all cheap and we eat like kings.

Newcastle is just around the corner. We don’t even need to turn the page on the map anymore. Full of food, and after a nice cold drink I’m ready to get going. I’m re-energized, and since I don’t know how long that will last it’s best to get moving.

Elswick to Newcastle-upon-Tyne

Suburbia has given way to the real city, creeping closer with every step. Walking alongside the main road, it hasn’t been this busy on the whole trail. I realize we’re now slightly out of place. Everyone else is in shorts and t-shirt, just out for a walk or going somewhere with a purpose. So are we, I suppose. But the hiking gear and large backpack makes us stick out a bit.

Hot and sweaty, unshowered and carry what looks like my entire worldly belongings on my back I feel more like a homeless person wandering the streets of the big city, than cross-country kick-ass hiker extraordinaire.

We spot some e-scooters. You know the kind big cities often have. We joke that we could just jump on there and be at our hotel in no time. I laugh as Val suggests it, but really I’m weighing up how I would balance on it with my backpack.

The final push on the Hadrian’s Wall Walk into Newcastle might have been the hardest. Urban city center all around, the riverside trail is less picturesque now. Since it’s already gone 2pm it now makes sense to veer off the trail, check into the hotel and end the hike without all the extra backpack weight.

Reaching the Quayside, the riverside pubs are overflowing with day drinkers. I want to be one of them. But I’m not quite there yet. Our hotel is only a couple minutes off the Hadrian’s Wall Walk path and our room is ready. No sooner have we walked in the front door of the hotel and the hotel staff ask if we’re their intrepid explorers. Um…I guess so?! Are we famous? Turns out they don’t get many people leaving luggage from being on the trail so we’re a hit.

We dump our bags and I get changed. It feels good to be in clean(er) clothes. But the show must go on. I stuff a couple of items in a shoulder bag along with my water and we leave the comfort of our hotel.

Newcastle to Wallsend

Last push. We have about 4.9-miles/7.8km left to go on the Hadrian’s Wall Walk. Is that really all? With the weight gone from my back I feel much more free. The sun is still hot on my back but I’m excited to keep going. The busy inner-city riverside walk gets quieter and more industrial as Newcastle fades away behind us.

Turning off a pretty average nothing street and we arrive at a cute little marina area. A sign tells me we’re at a place called St Peter’s Basin and it’s lovely. The number of times I’ve been to Newcastle and had no idea this was just out of the city center. We pass a few houses and then it’s just us and the trail again.

It’s at this point that all our injuries begin to resurface. And they brought new friends. Everything hurts. I’ve developed a limp, Val’s sore shoulder is aching so much she’s trying to move the way she’s holding it. Combined we could resemble Quasimodo.

I don’t always believe in signs, but when there’s literally one right in front of you, you kind of have to. Someone has attached handwritten notes to the blue railing that guides around the river walk. Positive affirmations, and one of them feels like it’s speaking to me. It says “Life is tough, but so are you”. I think I needed that.

We’re at a point along the riverside walk where there are more than a couple of shady characters. Empty beer cans litter the trail and it feels like the place underage kids go so they won’t get caught. Our riverside trail ends, or rather starts climbing. We double back on ourselves but at a higher elevation. A sign points to the Roman museum, and shows Bowness-on-Solway is 84 miles away. I think we’ve made it.

We made it to Wallsend

I can barely contain my emotions in the final few hundred meters. The Segedunum Roman Fort & Museum marks the end of the trail. In fact I know there’s a sign we can take our picture in front of.

We joke about what would happen if one of the many cyclists whizzing past us took us out 50 yards before the finish line. Don’t worry, it didn’t. A cloud of smoke comes towards us and we’re engulfed in a foul smelling, almost eye-stinging, mist from the construction site opposite. Not the end to the trail I was expecting, but OK.

Ignoring that, I look to the left and there it is. The final piece of the wall. And then the sign. The sign that says “I Walked Hadrian’s Wall”. Right behind a locked gate. So as it turns out, the museum closes at 5pm and since the sign is on the museum grounds and we arrived at 5:05pm we are unable to get to it.

But I’m not giving up. I walked 84-miles over 6 days, up and down hills, over sheep-poop filled fields, in wind, rain and searing heat. This is not how it ends. I will climb that fence if I have to. We round the corner to the museum entrance and find the last stamp for our passport. Check. But still no way in. Rounding the next corner we enter the parking lot. Luckily it’s still open as there is also a kindergarten in the complex open for another 20-minutes.

There, to the right of a Roman soldier statue outside the main museum, I spot the sign. We made it. 84 miles. 134km. Blood, sweat, tears. We threw everything at this hike and it threw it right back and then some. Good luck went with us.

I walked the Wall

For the last 6 days, I had carried a surprise for this moment. Matching t-shirts that say “I walked the Wall”. Sure, it’s kinda kitschy but who cares, you only do this once (I hope). We add another layer and take a couple of photos. Because did you really walk the wall if you don’t have a selfie of you at the end?!

I wish I’d had time to look at the museum. It’s not big, but there’s a viewing platform that looks out over the Roman Fort site. I’ll come back another day I’m sure. For now I’m happy to have made it, because there are times I didn’t think we would.

There’s this kind of weird feeling that follows an achievement like this. More so when there’s no-one there to celebrate with you. We started the walk without fanfare, and we ended it the same way. It feels weird to just go back to the hotel, like there should be more. I can’t walk any more, that’s for sure, but 9+ months of planning and we’re done. I call my parents, and they’re excited for us. My Mum asks if we’re walking back to Newcastle! Still not sure if she was joking.

Exhausted, we walk across the street to the supermarket and call a taxi. Almost asleep in the back of it, we are back at our hotel in about 20-minutes. Showered, with clean clothes, we make it to the pub across the street for dinner. And drinks. Many drinks. We earned every one of them. I walked Hadrian’s Wall!

If you’ve enjoyed this post about the Hadrian’s Wall Walk leave a comment or share using the social media buttons below. Have you ever challenged yourself to a long hike or something else like this? What were your feelings when you finally finished it?