Hadrian’s Wall Walk Day 4: Steel Rigg to Chollerford

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I never thought that today’s experiences would include creating a makeshift backpack cover out of a garbage bag in the middle of an open field, or huddling in a 1700-year-old temple to beat the sideways rain. But the Hadrian’s Wall Walk is full of surprises like that.

This was a wild day on the Wall, with a change of plans at the end of our day. The hike begins as the previous day ended – lots of ups and downs and some crazy wind. Like Day 3 there is a lot of history, and a lot of Roman Wall to follow. Some stunning scenery, a rather famous tree and the aforementioned temple are some of the most interesting parts of the day.

Day 4: Steel Rigg to Chollerford

But first let’s go back to the beginning of the day, at Steel Rigg, after two nights rest at Once Brewed. Good food, good beer, and a comfy bed for a couple of nights. Tonight we will be camping so I’m in no hurry to rush out of bed.

Today’s section of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk will be about 19km/11.5-miles. That doesn’t include the extra half mile that you’ll need to reach the start of the trail from Once Brewed.

There is lots of the Roman Wall to follow today as well as some of the best maintained Roman Forts. While the first part of the day is very up and down, the latter half of the day is relatively flat. It will however follow the course of the main road – albeit from the safety and comfort of a field on the other side of a hedge. After Housesteads there are no bathrooms or reliable food/water sources so plan ahead.

Bring plenty of water for the day as there aren’t many places to refill. But go easy on your water if you don’t want to spend the day “wild-weeing” as one person put it. It’s a fine balance, and one I wasn’t always successful at.

Accommodation options in Chollerford

Chollerford is a convenient place to end this day as there are a number of accommodation options – and places to get great food.

For a budget option you can stay at Riverside Campsite. It’s right off the trail in the center of Chollerford and super easy to find.

Just before Chollerford is Greencarts Campsite & Bunkhouse and just after Chollerford is Hadrian’s Wall Yurt. These latter options are not right on the Hadrian’s Wall Walk so would add to your day a little to get to.

Chollerford also has a couple of Bed & Breakfasts, or right in the center of the village is the George Hotel. We had reservations at Riverside Campsite, but (spoiler alert) we ended up staying at the George Hotel. The George did include breakfast and although not the most modern of properties, was comfortable enough and great for our one night. The large buffet breakfast had a lot of options too.

Hadrian’s Wall Walk – After a day of rest

The long slog that was Day 3: Banks to Steel Rigg was followed by two nights at Once Brewed in the hostel there. Having a day off helped us rest. But this morning I wonder if we should have just split the trip up into shorter days than have a full day off. Still, I was able to visit and explore Housesteads Roman Fort on my free day which is always fun.

We eat our pre-ordered breakfast at the YHA hostel, loading up on energy for a long day which we already know is scant with options for food and rest. Unlike the previous days where there was always a nice tea room serving delicious cakes and other snacks along the way, today will be a long day without such luxuries.

We drop our bag at the door for our luggage service – Hadrian’s Bags – to pick up later. Then off we go. The weight of the backpack after a rest day is something I don’t welcome. But it’s a bright enough morning and I’m excited to get back on the trail.

While the official continuation point of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk is at Steel Rigg car park, we don’t need to go that far. Cutting through a field behind Peel Cottage, we find an alternate route and soon see the Roman Wall again. And a steep incline to start.

Memories of Day 3’s ups and downs come flooding back. Do I really have the energy to do this? But we’re half way on our epic trail, and I am nothing if not determined.

Within minutes we have spotted the Mennonite ladies from earlier in our hike as well as a couple other people who must also have stayed at Once Brewed. We exchange Good Mornings and all begin to tackle the steep makeshift steps leading to the first ridge.

Steel Rigg to Housesteads

From our high vantage point we are able to see the Twice Brewed Inn. The lingering memories of a good meal and good beer will keep me going. For the first mile we are up and down. We make our way past the beautifully intact foundations of Milecastle 39. The wall can be seen snaking off into the distance for miles and miles. A drop on the other side of the wall shows lush green fields of farm animals and Crag Lough lake in the not-so-distance.

The real treat for me is about a mile into today’s hike when from over a ridge Sycamore Gap** comes into view. Right in the middle of a dip, next to the Wall, is a stunning sycamore tree with a few hundred years under its belt. The 1991 Kevin Costner movie Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves was filmed here and everyone now knows this as the Robin Hood Tree.

The sun comes out just in time to allow me to take some magnificent photos – and it’s still early in the day so the usual crowds haven’t yet arrived. We meet a man who is hiking today just to see this tree. Another hour of walking takes us along more ridgelines, past more amazingly preserved Wall, and even through a small forested area. We arrive at Housesteads Roman Fort 90 minutes into our day – just before our third mile is complete.

Sure this is a long day, but make sure to take time out to explore Housesteads Roman Fort. If you don’t make a long stop anywhere else on the Hadrian’s Wall Walk, please do here. If like us you have factored in a free day, this is a fantastic place to spend a couple of hours.

**Unfortunately in 2023 the Robin Hood tree at Sycamore Gap was vandalized and chopped down overnight, but I opted to leave the photos in here as it was an iconic landmark in the region.

Housesteads to Brocolitia Roman Fort

As we have a long day ahead, and explored the previous day, we take advantage of the last bathroom for a long time. Grabbing a drink and a treat from the gift shop, we’re on our way. The views of the Wall around here are just mesmerizing, undulating over the rolling green hills of northern England.

We find a few friendly (from a distance) cows along the way, and continue to hug the wall (not literally) along the trail. For the next 2.5 miles or so (about 4 km) we continue climbing up and down. The good thing about following a path along a ruined Roman Wall? It ends up being a convenient height for rest stops along the way. Sitting or leaning against it to catch our breath, we raid our backpacks for snacks to keep our energy up.

We continue to see a lot of the same people. Since we’re all stopping at various points, we overtake each other often. Passing turrets and milecastles, I know we have to be heading to flatter ground soon. Having visited the temple at Brocolitia already I know it’s nearer the main road. I can still see the road running parallel to us a mile away.

At last we start moving closer to the road, and see no more ridges in our future. Following the trail towards a farm, we emerge around the back of it and set off across a more open stretch of land. We’re back to low fields, tall grasses and sheep poop. The clouds have threatened rain for the last couple of miles, but it’s once we’re out in the open with no shelter as far as the eye can see that they finally let loose a deluge of rain. Brilliant.

Hustling to get my waterproof gear on, I frantically search for a backpack cover I realize doesn’t exist. How could I not have checked this? A lightbulb goes off and I remember packing a large garbage bag. I drape it over my backpack and my friend ties it to the bag at the top to keep it in place. Genius! Luckily in this direction the wind is at our back. Miserably we continue, trudging along through fields in the rain until we finally reach Brocolitia and the Mithraic Temple there.

Brocolitia to Walwick

We’re more than half way through the day, but the rain is still teeming and this doesn’t feel like success. The Mithraic Temple at Brocolitia is impressive. Two English Heritage volunteers are on hand to answer questions about it, and remind us that the grassy sides of the temple would have been where the Romans sat. So we can sit down too. We cower in the open air temple, in our rain gear, water dripping off us. And we cast our minds to the fact that we’re camping in a tent tonight. It does not make me happy.

Day four and we’ve made it this far through northern England without any real adverse weather. So that has to be a win. The temple is filled with partially degraded columns and statues. At 1300 years old it’s still more or less obvious the type of space it once was.

The parking lot at Brocolitia has a coffee van selling hot drinks and some small snacks like sausage rolls and muffins. But there isn’t anywhere to sit except the increasingly soggy ground so we forge ahead. It isn’t long before the rain clears up and I can safely put my rain jacket away. I leave on the rain pants just in case for now.

There are larger gaps between sections of the wall now. We cross field after field, hearing the gentle whoosh of cars on the other side of the fence along the road. It’s been a long day so far. Snacks are all that’s kept us going so I’m ready for a good meal. By the time we reach Black Carts Turret we pretty much say goodbye to the wall for the day.

With only 3km to go, the trail takes us through wooded area and eventually a dirt path. Emerging into the start of a small village, we have arrived at Walwick.

Walwick to Chollerford

The houses are enormous, the gardens are lavish and everywhere looks like it has its own butler and should be at the center of a murder mystery. We follow the main road, casting glances over the sweeping countryside views to the right, and checking out the older farmhouse-style buildings along the road to the left.

It appears to be a busy little road, more traffic than we’ve seen this close for a couple of days. Seeing what looks to be a church clock and steeple in the distance, we finally get close enough. That’s when I notice this is no church, but rather a sprawling estate. Walwick Hall. A gargantuan driveway leads to an ivy covered entrance. You can stay at Walwick Hall as it has self catering apartments, a hotel and a fancy spa.

But there’s no Walwick Hall for us. Instead we’re destined for greener pastures – the field where we’ll be camping. The dark clouds above this lavish estate are another reminder as to our choices of tent accommodation for the night.

Chesters Roman Fort is on the right a little further down the road. There’s a box outside where you can get your Hadrian’s Wall Walk passport stamp. We decide to go to the museum to check for café and bathroom. The gift shop has a single bathroom stall but everything else was in the museum. We are almost at Chollerford so decide to push on, but Chesters is a great place to spend some time if you make it early enough.

It is around 4pm, one of our best arrival times to date. This is mostly due to the lack of stopping places on the way, of course. It is very easy to find the Riverside Camping site right next to The Riverside Kitchen. We recover our bag from a trailer out back, the usual place they are stored. And since we haven’t really eaten all day we go into The Riverside Kitchen since they’re open until 5pm.

Chollerford accommodation dilemma

I devour a bowl of homemade leek and potato soup with delicious fresh crusty bread. Looking at the breakfast menu and the cakes on display we vow that this is where we’ll start our day tomorrow.

But it’s while enjoying that hard earned food that we start discussing the planned night camping. Is this something we actually want to do? What if it rains? Is it going to be noisy beside a main road and at a campsite that also doubles as a bus depot for a local bus company? A few people today told us they are staying at the George Hotel. And now we see this hotel opposite us, with it’s enclosed walls and cozy rooms (presumably) we’re being drawn in.

Walking into the lobby I enquire about rates for the night. It will be £120 and that includes breakfast. On the other hand it’s £20 for the campsite for the night. On Booking.com I find the hotel room for £105. Hmm, now it’s a tougher decision. That’s an £85 difference and we think about the fact we’ll likely pay over £10 each for breakfast elsewhere.

We’re trying to justify the additional cost at this rate, as I’m sure you can tell. Screw it. Tent in a field with the threat of rain, versus hotel with cozy room and breakfast? No contest. We take the room and let Hadrian’s Bags know our change of plan so they can collect our bag there tomorrow. It doesn’t seem a problem for them – another reason we loved using them. Going to the room and taking a hot shower – that’s when I know this was the right decision.

A night in Chollerford

With fresh clothes and the sweat and dirt of the day washed away I feel like a new person. A happy person. A person who knows that they will sleep well tonight and be ready for Day 5 of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk tomorrow. The George Hotel is a maze to get around. An old building with rooms that could probably do with a little refurbishing. But there’s all the amenities you would want, and it beats sleeping on the ground.

The leek and potato soup, delicious as it was, is not going to cut it for the evening after all that walking. We know the George Hotel served food but we’d heard great things about the other pub in Chollerford, The Crown Inn. And because we hadn’t quite walked enough that day we set off up the hill towards the pub.

The little village is pretty, some lovely little houses and buildings, and it is nice and quiet. The weather seems to be improving and I’m warm enough to not need a jacket. The Crown Inn looks busy as we get closer. The parking lot is full including with some fabulous vintage cars. We order a drink while we wait for a table, but luckily it doesn’t take long, the landlady fits us in within minutes.

The menu at the Crown Inn is actually really good. The specials board has even more ideas, and there are a number of vegetarian options which is amazing. I decide to carb it up and the creamy, gooey mac and cheese hits the spot. As do the local beers we order, working our way along the taps behind the bar.

On the way back to the hotel I take a walk over the little bridge that leads out of Chollerford. The river is calm, the clouds less threatening, and the sky a beautiful mix of colors as sunset approaches. Maybe it wouldn’t have been bad camping. But being in a hotel is definitely going to be better. Good luck go with us.

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