Birdoswald Roman Fort – Discovering Hadrian’s Wall

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In my opinion, no history buff should miss exploring the incredible almost 2000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hadrian’s Wall, on a visit to the UK. The fact you can see such a big piece of Roman history in northern England makes for a unique trip. Birdoswald Roman Fort is just one of the many sites along the Wall you should carve out time to see, keep reading to find out why.

What is Hadrian’s Wall?

The year is AD 122. Emperor Hadrian has been ruler of the Roman Empire for 5 years. He decides to protect the Roman territory of Britannia by building a wall that spans the northern part of present day England. The goal is to separate the Romans from the barbarians.

Over 80 miles of stone wall was built along some of the harshest land Britain had to offer. Forts, milecastles and watchtowers were strategically constructed all along the wall, each manned with up to hundreds of soldiers.

The wall has since become a cultural link to one of the most famous periods in history. Hadrian’s Wall, even 1900 years later, is still visible – as are the remains of its once great forts. Birdoswald Roman Fort is just one of them.

Where is Hadrian’s Wall?

Hadrian’s Wall once ran from Bowness-on-Solway in the west, to Wallsend in the east. The Hadrian’s Wall Path trail is a popular hiking route along where the old wall once stood.

Nowadays the remains of the Wall can be seen intermittently along the route along rural northern England, with some areas having survived better than others.

The two largest cities along Hadrian’s Wall are Carlisle, towards the western end, and Newcastle-upon-Tyne, towards the eastern end.

The remains of the Wall run through fields and small towns along this northern edge of England and loosely follow the A69 road from east to west.

Is much of Hadrian’s Wall still there?

Unfortunately, not as much as you might hope. It’s true there are still sections of the wall that are very much visible, however since the Wall is almost 2000 years old, it has sadly disappeared over time.

The main culprit? Since the fall of the Roman Empire, locals have used the stones that the Wall was made up of to build houses, churches and other buildings that still stand today. So I guess there most of Hadrian’s Wall is still there, it just isn’t where you’d expect.

From 18th Century farmhouses to 13th century churches, construction used parts of the now defunct Hadrian’s Wall. But there is still plenty of original Wall to see.

Along the route are a number of the major forts, the outlines of buildings still clearly visible. And some of the most intact sections of the Wall can be found snaking off into the distance over hills of the northern English countryside.

Getting to Birdoswald Roman Fort

The closest town to Birdoswald Roman Fort is Brampton, which is only a few miles out of the larger city of Carlisle.

Hadrian’s Wall spans the two counties of Cumbria and Northumberland, and Birdoswald Roman Fort is the only major fort you can visit that lies in Cumbria. All the others are in Northumberland.

To get to Birdoswald from Carlisle, follow signs for the A69 north out of the city center – the road then heads east towards Brampton and eventually Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Just after Brampton you’ll see the signs for the fort which won’t steer you wrong.

Of course you could be like me, and decide to hike the Hadrian’s Wall trail. You should reach Birdoswald Roman Fort shortly after passing through Banks. That’s where I stayed at the end of Day 2 of the Hadrian’s Wall hike. The fort is about 16-miles outside of Carlisle.

Birdoswald Roman Fort Basics

• Managed by English Heritage – if you’re a member you’ll get in for free
• Cost is £10 for adults (2024 pricing)
• Off-site parking for additional fee – 200 meters from entrance
• Café and shop on site – snacks only, no main meals served
• The site can be very muddy, wear comfortable, sturdy footwear
• Accessible for guests with mobility issues or in wheelchairs – ground can be uneven in areas though

ENGLISH HERITAGE COST SAVING TIP

If you live in the UK you can consider buying an English Heritage membership for access to this and other historical sites around the country. It costs around £70/year for an adult membership.

If, however, you’re only visiting the UK, you can purchase an English Heritage Overseas Visitors Pass. Passes start at £45 and there are 9-day and 16-day options. Perfect if you want to visit multiple English Heritage sites including nearby Housesteads Roman Fort.

Exploring Birdoswald Roman Fort

This site in Cumbria isn’t huge, not as big as Housesteads Roman Fort in Northumbria. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty to see here.

Interestingly enough before Birdoswald became part of English Heritage it was a farm, and the former owners commissioned excavations of the Roman remains. The name of the Fort in Roman times was Banna.

THE MUSEUM

The museum is small, but informative. Located in the same farmhouse building as the gift shop, it’s where you start and end your tour of Birdoswald Roman Fort.

The museum, like many English Heritage museums, is very kid-friendly. It tell stories and history using fun drawings and interactive activities. It also introduces Roman cartoon-like characters that will explain Roman life to kids in a simpler way.

Highlights of the museum include: Artifacts found at the site including burial urns, a short film telling the history of Hadrian’s Wall, and an interactive area for kids where they can recreate the Wall using Lego bricks with step-by-step instructions.

THE RUINS

While there have been a lot of excavations over the years, much of the Roman history is still very much buried under the undulating hills around the northern English countryside. That said, Birdoswald Roman Fort has uncovered the foundations of a number of buildings.

The granaries are always the most interesting as you can see the under floor ventilation that were in place. Perfect for keeping the food fresh before refrigeration and in the damp north of England.

There’s also an exercise hall, main building as well as soldiers barracks. You can see the outlines of the main gates into the fort, and also gate hinges where big wooden doors would have secured the individual buildings.

Lastly, the site was occupied after the Romans left, with a great hall being the centerpiece that is still visible – because it was built on top of the granaries. Wooden posts mark where it would have been constructed over the Roman remains.

If you’re expecting full buildings and something that looks like a fort you will be disappointed. But the fact that any remains have lasted almost two thousand years is remarkable. Let alone that you can clearly see the purpose of many of the remains.

THE VIEWS

It’s a little wild and windy up in Cumbria, as you cross the exposed hills of northern England. Hair whipping in your face, and the too-often threat of rain, it’s always a nice treat when the sun comes out. Then you can really appreciate the pretty countryside views.

Even on a cloudy day, it can look spectacular – and just a little mysterious as you’re surrounded by ancient ruins.

There are plenty of sheep all around Hadrian’s Wall to keep you company. And one of the best views from Birdoswald Roman Fort is out the back just beyond the west gate. Careful as you approach the edge of a dangerous drop – but what a view over the snaking river and lush green landscape – even in the dead of winter.

THE SHOP

From fake swords, Roman helmets and wine goblets, to locally made jams, spirits and other treats, the shop has a wide range of products to blow your money on. Some of it you’ll want, some you won’t – unless you’re with kids, then you won’t have a choice.

There are enough small priced items for kids to spend their pocket money on. And some actually nice items mixed in with the tacky touristy gifts.

I do love that the book shop has such a great range of Roman history books. Read about the fort, the Wall or just Roman history in general. You can even buy a book to plan the Hadrian’s Wall Walk.

And there are lots of kid-friendly books like the Horrible Histories series that I loved when I was younger. There they can read all about the Rotten Romans with all the gory details.

THE CAFE

The Birdoswald Roman Fort café is not as good as a lot of other English Heritage cafés. It’s enough for light snacks, a hot drink to warm up, or a mid afternoon slice of cake. But you won’t find a proper lunch here.

We stopped in for a cake and a warm pasty from their limited but delicious selection. The café has about a half dozen tables, and in the summer you can sit outside in the courtyard. When I was walking Hadrian’s Wall I stopped here for a quick snack to take with me – it’s a great place to refuel on your Banks to Steel Rigg day.

Top Travel Tip: If you’re looking for better food options around here, I’d suggest House of Meg in nearby village of Gilsland. Only a 5-minute drive from Birdoswald Roman Fort they have tons of good food including hot sandwiches and soups. This place was a good find while walking the Wall.

FURTHER AFIELD FROM BIRDOSWALD ROMAN FORT

Or into the fields I should really say. Because, let’s face it, you didn’t come out here to not get muddy. Mud is a fact of life around Hadrian’s Wall, so embrace it early on.

But seriously, if you’re visiting Birdoswald Roman Fort, you have to at least walk a bit of Hadrian’s Wall. Immediately after leaving the fort, on your way to the car park, you’ll see the Wall disappear over the horizon. This is one of the first major long stretches of the Wall.

From Birdoswald you can walk to Turret 48A which will lead you over one of my favorite parts of the Wall walk. It crosses the River Irthing, where you can see remains of the old Willowford Roman Bridge. You’ll also pass a couple of Roman turrets from the fortified Wall. The walk will be less than an hour round trip – or keep going into Gilsland if you feel up for it.

Cawfield Quarry is another part of Hadrian’s Wall you should visit. It is my actual favorite part of the Wall. Not only is it free to visit, other than small car park fee, you can see one of the Wall’s Milecastles, as well as get some epic views. The view from the Wall, one of the most intact parts of the wall in fact, is stunning. It’s only a 15-minute drive from Birdoswald.

Up for another Roman fort? Head over to Housesteads Roman Fort, just a 20-minute drive. This fort is even better than Birdoswald, including being able to see the best preserved Roman toilets! It’s quite the walk from the car park through a hilly field, so isn’t as suitable for those with mobility issues, but if you can make the trek it’s a great place to explore.

And if you do decide to visit either Housesteads or Cawfields, a stop at the Twice Brewed Inn is a must. Roman-inspired beer names from their delicious local brewery, proper pub meals that will leave you stuffed, and a great place to stay whether you’re walking the Wall or doing it all by car.

Is Birdoswald Roman Fort the one for me?

A trip to Cumbria or Northumberland isn’t complete without exploring Hadrian’s Wall. If you have a couple of days, I urge you to check out a couple of the forts – Housesteads, Vindolanda, Chesters.

The Roman Forts all cost the same amount to enter, so if you had to pick one, I would always suggest Housesteads. The ruins are less ruined, the site is much bigger, and there’s a lot more to see and do there.

That said, Birdoswald Roman Fort is a unique place on its own and well worth a visit, especially if you’re up for exploring more than one Roman fort. Birdoswald is more accessibility friendly and I would say that the museum is a little more kid-friendly and interactive.

Seeing Hadrian’s Wall up close is, in my opinion, a really cool experience. To stand that close to so much history, and one that we hear a lot about in school, is sure to make you feel just a little insignificant.

But it’s impressive that you can also say you’re standing where Roman soldiers once marched. Maybe that’s just the history geek in me, but don’t just take my word for it, see for yourself.

If you’ve enjoyed this post leave a comment or share using the social media buttons below. Have you visited Birdoswald Roman Fort, or any other forts along Hadrian’s Wall? Which one did you like best?